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Ignoramus13927
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 6:10 am
Guest
I need to repair a safety shield from a large "bench" grinder. The
shield is cast iron and has a crack. I want to know what is the
easiest way to repair this, with the choices being: silicon bronze,
fluxed silver brazing sticks, or TIG with 99% nickel.

i
Proctologically Violated©
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 7:53 am
Guest
"Ignoramus13927" <ignoramus13927@NOSPAM.13927.invalid> wrote in message
news:yYadnauVHO0Up8DXnZ2dnUVZ_jAAAAAA@giganews.com...
Quote:
I need to repair a safety shield from a large "bench" grinder. The
shield is cast iron and has a crack. I want to know what is the
easiest way to repair this, with the choices being: silicon bronze,
fluxed silver brazing sticks, or TIG with 99% nickel.

All are pretty simple, including cast iron welding rod -- more expensive
than normal rod, but used similarly.
Ordinary brazing should also work.

--

Mr. PV'd

Mae West (yer fav CongressShill) to the Gangster (yer fav Lobbyist):
Hey, Big Boy, is that a wad (of cash) in yer pocket, or are you just
glad to see me??

Experiment on Homo Sapiens -- CEOs, Lawyers, and Politicians, in
particular.
Spare the animals.

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www.theanimalrescuesite.com/


Quote:

i
Jim Stewart
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:53 am
Guest
Ignoramus13927 wrote:
Quote:
I need to repair a safety shield from a large "bench" grinder. The
shield is cast iron and has a crack. I want to know what is the
easiest way to repair this, with the choices being: silicon bronze,
fluxed silver brazing sticks, or TIG with 99% nickel.

I successfully repaired a friend's cast iron
power steering pulley with blue flux coated
brazing rod and oxy/ace. Your mileage may
vary. Clean well and clamp precisely.
Glenn Lyford
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:16 am
Guest
Quote:
I need to repair a safety shield from a large "bench" grinder. The
shield is cast iron and has a crack. I want to know what is the
easiest way to repair this, with the choices being: silicon bronze,
fluxed silver brazing sticks, or TIG with 99% nickel.

I've used SMAW (stick) with Ni99 rod, because it was the process I had
available, and it was pretty easy. Ground as big a "v" as I could and
still align the pieces, repaired part is still in service. Granted, I
re-enforced it at the same time, so it's now under a lot less stress...
whit3rd
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 1:39 pm
Guest
On Jul 14, 10:10 pm, Ignoramus13927 <ignoramus13...@NOSPAM.
13927.invalid> wrote:
Quote:
I need to repair a safety shield from a large "bench" grinder. The
shield is cast iron and has a crack. I want to know what is the
easiest way to repair this, with the choices being: silicon bronze,
fluxed silver brazing sticks, or TIG with 99% nickel.

Nickel, is the usual recommendation. I've always been
told the whole castiron part has to be heated to prevent
cracking, so it'd take a small bed of charcoal in addition
to the TIG welder.
Joskin
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 5:52 pm
Guest
"Ignoramus32217" <ignoramus32217@NOSPAM.32217.invalid> wrote in message
news:JpOdncxyG9oIeMDXnZ2dnUVZ_vmdnZ2d@giganews.com...
Quote:
On 2009-07-15, whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
On Jul 14, 10:10?pm, Ignoramus13927 <ignoramus13...@NOSPAM.
13927.invalid> wrote:
I need to repair a safety shield from a large "bench" grinder. The
shield is cast iron and has a crack. I want to know what is the
easiest way to repair this, with the choices being: silicon bronze,
fluxed silver brazing sticks, or TIG with 99% nickel.

Nickel, is the usual recommendation. I've always been
told the whole castiron part has to be heated to prevent
cracking, so it'd take a small bed of charcoal in addition
to the TIG welder.

Based on all I have heard so far:

1) I need to clean the cracks, regardless of joining method. This is
a crack on a grinder's shield, so I think that I will try to wedge the
crack a little wider and sandblast.

2) Brazing
- Preheat in barbeque
- Heat to read hot in forge
- Apply silver braze

OR

2) Welding
- Preheat in barbeque
- Weld with TIG and 99 nickel rod


I'm only a amateur / farm welder so this may be irrelevant -
I bought rods specially for cast iron (no idea of their content)
Heated parts with big blowtorch
Stick welded the parts
*Left the blowtorch on - only reduced it very, very slowly* (someone told me
this was important)
It worked

Joskin
Leo Lichtman
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 5:52 pm
Guest
The business about heating in a pile of charcoal and slow cooldown is not
always necessary. Cracking occurs as a result of thermal stresses, which
happen if the shape has a loop (or loops) such that the hot part and cool
part are pulling in different directions. The simplest example would be a
cast iron ring. After the repair, the heated part cools and shrinks. The
rest of the ring is fighting the shrinkage, generally resultig in a crack
near the repair. On the other hand, a simple butt-weld can shrink without
developing stress, and all the fancy precautions are unnecessary.

If the grinder safety shield does not form any kind of loop around the
cracked area, chances are you can just fix it and let it cool.

One thing that has not been mentioned is peening. If you weld in small
increments, and peen the repair as it cools, you will relieve much of the
stress and reduce the likelihood of cracking.
SteveB
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 5:52 pm
Guest
"Ignoramus32217" <ignoramus32217@NOSPAM.32217.invalid> wrote in message
news:JpOdncxyG9oIeMDXnZ2dnUVZ_vmdnZ2d@giganews.com...
Quote:
On 2009-07-15, whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
On Jul 14, 10:10?pm, Ignoramus13927 <ignoramus13...@NOSPAM.
13927.invalid> wrote:
I need to repair a safety shield from a large "bench" grinder. The
shield is cast iron and has a crack. I want to know what is the
easiest way to repair this, with the choices being: silicon bronze,
fluxed silver brazing sticks, or TIG with 99% nickel.

Nickel, is the usual recommendation. I've always been
told the whole castiron part has to be heated to prevent
cracking, so it'd take a small bed of charcoal in addition
to the TIG welder.

Based on all I have heard so far:

1) I need to clean the cracks, regardless of joining method. This is
a crack on a grinder's shield, so I think that I will try to wedge the
crack a little wider and sandblast.

2) Brazing
- Preheat in barbeque
- Heat to read hot in forge
- Apply silver braze

OR

2) Welding
- Preheat in barbeque
- Weld with TIG and 99 nickel rod

Don't forget slow cool down.
Ignoramus32217
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 5:52 pm
Guest
On 2009-07-15, whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
Quote:
On Jul 14, 10:10?pm, Ignoramus13927 <ignoramus13...@NOSPAM.
13927.invalid> wrote:
I need to repair a safety shield from a large "bench" grinder. The
shield is cast iron and has a crack. I want to know what is the
easiest way to repair this, with the choices being: silicon bronze,
fluxed silver brazing sticks, or TIG with 99% nickel.

Nickel, is the usual recommendation. I've always been
told the whole castiron part has to be heated to prevent
cracking, so it'd take a small bed of charcoal in addition
to the TIG welder.

Based on all I have heard so far:

1) I need to clean the cracks, regardless of joining method. This is
a crack on a grinder's shield, so I think that I will try to wedge the
crack a little wider and sandblast.

2) Brazing
- Preheat in barbeque
- Heat to read hot in forge
- Apply silver braze

OR

2) Welding
- Preheat in barbeque
- Weld with TIG and 99 nickel rod
Ignoramus32217
Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:08 am
Guest
I ended up stick welding it with Nickel 55 cast iron rod. I preheated
it in a barbeque set to HIGH, then welded with 1/8" Ni 55 rod at 105
amps, then put back into the barbeque to cool down. I had to leave
afterwards.

I will be home in 2 hours and then could clean up the weld and will
see how well it worked. It did not outright crack during welding, and
I have not yet looked at it after putting it in the grill to cool.
Ignoramus32217
Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:13 am
Guest
Had a look at the Nickel 55 weld on this cast iron guard. The good
news is that for the most part, there was good fusion, except for the
last 1 inch where the bead appears a little cold. After slow cooling
inside a hot grill, no cracks appeared. I think that this guard now is
as good as new, for its intended purposes of guarding the wheel. This
was, fortunately, a cheap repair.

i
engineman
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 1:24 am
Guest
I have welded successfully many cast iron machine parts with OA and
brazing rod with a ground out V.
Many years ago I saw a book produced by one of the large welding
supply companies (Linde) in which the author claimed that using a
conventional grinding wheel to V a broken casting would produce an
unsatisfactory job because the grinding process would smear the
surface to be brazed with graphite from the cast iron.
He advocated heating the metal to melting temperature and blowing the
metal away by turning up the oxygen.
He also described a process that he called "Lindewelding" which he
claimed was a fast way to weld mild steel with OA.
It involved using a carburizing flame which he claimed sped up the
process by converting mild steel to high carbon steel which he said
has a lower melting point.
Have any of you heard of these seemingly crazy ideas?

Engineman

On Jul 15, 7:13�pm, Ignoramus32217 <ignoramus32...@NOSPAM.
32217.invalid> wrote:
Quote:
Had a look at the Nickel 55 weld on this cast iron guard. The good
news is that for the most part, there was good fusion, except for the
last 1 inch where the bead appears a little cold. After slow cooling
inside a hot grill, no cracks appeared. I think that this guard now is
as good as new, for its intended purposes of guarding the wheel. This
was, fortunately, a cheap repair.

i
dcaster@krl.org
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 1:43 am
Guest
On Jul 19, 2:24 am, engineman <enginem...@aol.com> wrote:
Quote:
I have welded successfully many cast iron machine parts with OA and
brazing rod with a ground out V.
Many years ago I saw a book produced by one of the large welding
supply companies (Linde) in which the author claimed that using a
conventional grinding wheel to V a broken casting would produce an
unsatisfactory job because the grinding process would smear the
surface to be brazed with graphite from the cast iron.
He advocated heating the metal to melting temperature and blowing the
metal away by turning up the oxygen.

Have any of you heard of these seemingly crazy ideas?

Engineman


I have heard that grinding smears the surface with graphite. The
remedy that I heard was to use a cutting torch to go over the area
with an oxidizing flame after grinding. Getting the surface hot but
not near melting temperature.

Dan
Ignoramus17055
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 5:34 am
Guest
On 2009-07-19, engineman <engineman1@aol.com> wrote:
Quote:
I have welded successfully many cast iron machine parts with OA and
brazing rod with a ground out V.
Many years ago I saw a book produced by one of the large welding
supply companies (Linde) in which the author claimed that using a
conventional grinding wheel to V a broken casting would produce an
unsatisfactory job because the grinding process would smear the
surface to be brazed with graphite from the cast iron.
He advocated heating the metal to melting temperature and blowing the
metal away by turning up the oxygen.
He also described a process that he called "Lindewelding" which he
claimed was a fast way to weld mild steel with OA.
It involved using a carburizing flame which he claimed sped up the
process by converting mild steel to high carbon steel which he said
has a lower melting point.
Have any of you heard of these seemingly crazy ideas?

I cannot really evaluate what is crazy or not. I ended up heating this
in a BBQ grill and welding with Nickel 55 stick welding rod. It ended
up with a satisfactory weld over most of the cracks, though
unfortunately about one inch of the weld was poor due to my poor
welding (or possibly due to the part cooling, as the weld looked cold
over that one inch).

i

Quote:
Engineman

On Jul 15, 7:13???pm, Ignoramus32217 <ignoramus32...@NOSPAM.
32217.invalid> wrote:
Had a look at the Nickel 55 weld on this cast iron guard. The good
news is that for the most part, there was good fusion, except for the
last 1 inch where the bead appears a little cold. After slow cooling
inside a hot grill, no cracks appeared. I think that this guard now is
as good as new, for its intended purposes of guarding the wheel. This
was, fortunately, a cheap repair.

i
Ed Huntress
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 5:46 am
Guest
"engineman" <engineman1@aol.com> wrote in message
news:706dfd86-02b6-46a2-b1aa-34880c4e528b@x5g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
I have welded successfully many cast iron machine parts with OA and
brazing rod with a ground out V.
Many years ago I saw a book produced by one of the large welding
supply companies (Linde) in which the author claimed that using a
conventional grinding wheel to V a broken casting would produce an
unsatisfactory job because the grinding process would smear the
surface to be brazed with graphite from the cast iron.
He advocated heating the metal to melting temperature and blowing the
metal away by turning up the oxygen.
He also described a process that he called "Lindewelding" which he
claimed was a fast way to weld mild steel with OA.
It involved using a carburizing flame which he claimed sped up the
process by converting mild steel to high carbon steel which he said
has a lower melting point.
Have any of you heard of these seemingly crazy ideas?

Engineman

================================================

I've heard of the first one, but I've never tried to weld cast iron, so I
have no idea how good it is. As for the second one, he's correct that high
carbon steel has a slightly lower melting point than mild steel. But it does
sound crazy, because welding high-carbon steel invites cracks. Again,
though, it's not something I've tried.

--
Ed Huntress
 
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