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Brent P
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:08 pm
Guest
In article <y6QOh.5631$B25.5278@news01.roc.ny>, Mike wrote:
Quote:

"Brent P" <tetraethylleadREMOVETHIS@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3pOdnSmtV-AQ15bbnZ2dnUVZ_orinZ2d@comcast.com...
In article <35mdnf-ezp432pbbnZ2dnUVZWhednZ2d@giganews.com>, Steve Barker
wrote:
Wrong, just Wrong.

In which universe? Not in this one.

Here's a hint... oil coolers use the coolant to cool the oil.

Wrong again Bret. Transmission coolers use the coolant in the radiator to
cool. All the engine oil coolers I have ever seen were air cooled regardless
of manufacturer.

That should have read some oil coolers, but your exposure being limited
is not my problem. Here's an oil cooler from police package crown vic:

http://www.p71interceptor.com/oilcooler/index.html

Not to mention the much lighter duty version also shown on the same page.
Guest
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:08 pm
"C. E. White" <cewhite3@removemindspring.com> wrote in message
news:460bb181$1@kcnews01...
Quote:

\A copy of the old CR study is at
http://home.mindspring.com/~ed_white/id9.html . I know it is old and
since they used taxis, they don't have as many cold starts per mile as
a typical Consumer....

Thanks, Ed...
I quote from this report
"On the basis of our test results, we think that the commonly recommended
3,000-mile oil-change interval is conservative"

I am very conservative.

They also found no difference in performance between synthetics and
petroleum refined oils.
Not too surprising to me.

And when they tried to run Mobil 1 to 12, 000 miles, two of the three test
engines failed
prematurely, although they could not pin the failure on the Mobil 1.

It is some data, if not complete, and for this reference I thank you.

I know that data is out there. I found papers cited from test organizations
like Southwest Laboratories
but I have no access to them, and will not pay what they ask to get them. I
am interested, but not
THAT interested.

I will continue to use refined oils of high quality, UNLESS the manufacturer
of my car throws
warranty issues up in my face, and will continue to use frequent oil
changes. I have, from
my own calculations, found that it doesnt cost very much and -if it doesnt
do any good - it
certainly doesnt hurt anything.
Steve Barker
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:08 pm
Guest
If you insist on using the $ynthetics then the change interval is 3,000
miles. It doesn't matter if you pour in liquid gold, it still gets dirty in
the same length of time.

--
Steve Barker

YOU should be the one
controlling YOUR car.
Check out:
www.lightsout.org




"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:460BB521.79694506@hotmail.com...
Quote:
So what change interval do you recommend for vehicles that use synthetic
oil ?

Graham
Mike
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:08 pm
Guest
"Brent P" <tetraethylleadREMOVETHIS@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:wJWdnaPFx-OKoZbbnZ2dnUVZ_hadnZ2d@comcast.com...
Quote:
In article <5e7m03h7jbpfh502qbt6nepp7ic8rsh94e@4ax.com>, clare at
snyder.on.ca wrote:

Minimum 20 minutes to get the oil to full operating temperature, and
then about another 10 minutes for every day of short run cold morning,

snip

When your coolant has reached OT and the thermostat is open, the oil has
reached operating temperature some time before that. It's basic heat
transfer. If it had not, the coolant and engine block would still be
warming the oil and the Tstat would remain close.


Wrong. The oil takes much longer to reach operating temp than the
coolant. Want proof, just wait till the thermostat opens and feel the bottom
of the oil pan, still not hot is it ?
jim
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:08 pm
Guest
Mike wrote:
Quote:

"John Henderson" <jhenRemoveThis@talk21.com> wrote in message
news:570njeF2bipsiU1@mid.individual.net...
jwardl wrote:

How can oil be changed TOO often? Personally, think I'll stick
with 3/3k.

Because there's more wear with new oil than with moderately
stressed oil.

Got any proof to back up that claim ? I have to call bullshit on that one,
it doesn't even make sense.


If it made any sense to him he would buy my barrel of "moderately
stressed oil"

-jim


Quote:

If the lab results were different, I'd be changing my oil more
frequently. At some point, you've got to go with the evidence
and leave the fairy stories and wishful thinking behind.

John

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SMS
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:08 pm
Guest
C. E. White wrote:
Quote:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Barker" <ichasetrains@some.yahoo.com
Newsgroups:
alt.autos.ford,alt.autos.nissan,alt.autos.toyota,alt.trucks.ford,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer,rec.autos.tech
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:06 PM
Subject: Re: Automakers Lengthen Oil Change Intervals


I run it year 'round in Kansas. Still no problems. There's just not
that much difference, except the 30w lubes better hot.

Why do you say that? Back in the 70's multi-weight oils got a bad
reputation becasue some of the early 10W40 oils tended to break down
and in some cases you ended up with some sort of goop in the engine.
That was long ago. Modern API certified 5W30 and 10W30 oils have never
had that sort of problem. At normal "high" oil operating temperatures
(around 100 degrees C), straight 30 weight Havoline has a viscosity of
10.3 cSt. while both 5w30 and 10w30 Havoline have a viscosity of 9.7
cSt - less than 6% different (the acceptable range for 30 weight oil
is 9.3 to 12.5 cSt). At 40 degrees C (104 F), the straight 30 weight
has a viscosity over 80 cSt while the 5W30's viscosity is less than 60
cSt (both are still far thicker than either oil at 100 C). During a
normal cold start straight 30 weight oil is much thicker than 5W30
oil - not a good thing. Once an engine is warmed up, the 5W30 and
straight 30 weight have to meet the same viscosity requirements. So
where is the advantage of straight 30 weight oil?

1. It's a little cheaper.
2. The wider the range between the two viscosities, the more viscosity
modifiers and the less base stock in the oil.

However it's not really worth the significant extra wear at start-up to
use straight 30 weight. Not if you care about getting very long engine life.
Brent P
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 4:08 pm
Guest
In article <1175171148_8125@sp6iad.superfeed.net>, jim wrote:
Quote:


Brent P wrote:

In article <5e7m03h7jbpfh502qbt6nepp7ic8rsh94e@4ax.com>, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Minimum 20 minutes to get the oil to full operating temperature, and
then about another 10 minutes for every day of short run cold morning,

snip

When your coolant has reached OT and the thermostat is open, the oil has
reached operating temperature some time before that. It's basic heat
transfer. If it had not, the coolant and engine block would still be
warming the oil and the Tstat would remain close.

The thermostat does not remain closed until the engine is warmed up it
opens proportionate to the coolant temperature. Ideally it never opens
all the way.

Thanks mr. usenet nit-pick. I think everyone knows what was meant and how
a thermostat works, I didn't feel the need to write an entire paragraph
about it and go into a HS calculus lesson on limits either.
 
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